Spinning Thread
In collaboration with Japanese spinning mills, we carefully select the finest cotton for the ideal denim fabric from around the world. We carefully assess the quality of the raw cotton and adjust the blend to always use it in the best condition.To faithfully reproduce the unique color fading and texture of vintage denim, which was made when spinning technology was still in its infancy and the uneven thickness of the yarn, we precisely control the strength of the twist. This allows each thread to have a natural fluctuation, creating a look that is as close to vintage as possible.
Dyeing with Natural Indigo
Instead of the commonly used synthetic indigo, we use 100% rare natural indigo to achieve the deep “Japan Blue” color. Immediately after dyeing, the fabric is yellow to yellow-green, but when exposed to air, it oxidizes and transforms into a deep blue.
The warp threads are dyed using traditional rope dyeing, where the threads are bundled together into a rope-like shape, immersed in dye, then pulled out and oxidized, a process repeated multiple times to achieve a layered hue. Furthermore, when cotton threads are dyed from the outside, but do not completely dye all the way to the core, leaving a white residue, this is called “naka-shiro” (middle white), and is the source of the three-dimensional fading that appears the more you wear them.
Weaving Denim
The fabric is thicker and denser than regular denim. The surface has distinct irregularities and a strong roughness.
This fabric is carefully woven over time on an old-fashioned power loom, which has a production efficiency of about one-sixth that of modern looms. Because it is such an ancient machine, it requires constant delicate adjustments based on the experience and knowledge of artisans, and if it breaks down, it is not easy to replace it. A heavy, sturdy oak shuttle is used to weave the weft (white thread) without excessive tension on the warp thread (indigo thread). The finished fabric is thick and dense, and the more it is worn, the more it develops a patina and develops a richer look.
Sewing Jeans
To finish the jeans, we use multiple threads and sewing machines depending on the purpose, and our skilled craftsmen carefully sew each pair one by one.
For sewing, we use KINBA-CORE thread, which was developed specifically for jeans. While it is highly durable, the surface is made of cotton, so it blends naturally with the texture of denim and will develop a richer character with age.
For an accent, we use a single, noble purple stitch. The hem is finished with a Union Special chain stitch.
Selvage
While many brands use red selvedge, which is the mainstream, we have used a noble purple that harmonizes with the natural indigo blue. Together with the accent of the stitching, it expresses the uniqueness of the brand as a subtle individuality.
Button
The top button is an original aluminum button engraved with the brand name, and the rivets are also original stamped copper rivets with the same engraving, creating a consistent world view down to the smallest details.
“Bishamonten” Leather Label
The Marni Jeans flagship store is located along the old Hokkoku Kaido road, in a place associated with Uesugi Kenshin, with Torisaka Castle nearby.
Kenshin was a devout believer in “Bishamonten”, the god of war, and had the single character “Bi” (毘) on his flag as his symbol. Wearing this single character symbolizes our determination to pioneer a new era. The leather label is made from deerskin, the same leather used for samurai armor. The more you wear it and wash it, the deeper its appearance will become.
Finish
The natural water that springs from the Myoko mountain range contains seven times the iron content of normal jeans. When jeans are soaked in this water, it reacts with the indigo, turning them a deeper, richer, iron-blue color.
Furthermore, during the winter only, the jeans are exposed to snow, following the traditional technique of Niigata. While incorporating the power of nature, we create a deep flavor that can only be created in the land of Myoko.
